Best things to Eat, See and Do in Martha’s Vineyard in the Fall
Black Water Pond
By: Casey harding-brown
After visiting Martha’s Vineyard this fall, I completely fell in love.
The weather was absolutely perfect and the crowds were gone but there were still enough people so I didn’t feel as if I was on the set of an abandoned ghost town horror movie. The best way to travel is with zero expectations but every normal human brain will wander into an imaginative state prior to arrival. Matha’s Vineyard pleasantly surprised me and shattered the image I had created in my head. Don’t get me wrong, with all that old money, I knew it was going to be nice. But I was imagining a really preppy (double popped, bright-colored polo shirts came to mind), conservative vibe with beaches, bougie restaurants, and vineyards.
I was pleasantly surprised to find a very laid back, diverse crowd, a beautiful balance of ocean and forestry, active support for BLM, and a mix of high end and cute and casual places to eat. As a foodie, I obvi had to experience both. I was not so pleasantly surprised that Martha’s Vineyard is really just a name as there are no vineyards there. Jokes on me! But there was plenty to do, and plenty of places to get my wino fix (one named below) without visiting a vineyard.
Lucy Vincent Beach
Lucy Vincent Beach
One of the peaks of going to a super touristy town not during peak season is being able to get into places that would otherwise be impossible. Lucy Vincent Beach is a perfect example of that. During the summer you'll be hard pressed to see this beautiful beach as only residents of the specific area have passes to get in. But if you go in early fall the restrictions are lifted and if the weather still permits sunny beach days (which it thankfully did for me!) you should definitely check it out.
2. Noman’s
This cute local spot hosts a boisterous amount of outside seating with picnic tables sprawling a large lawn area. Whether you're looking for grab n go, drinks, or to sit down and eat with friends, you can find it all here. It was so good, I came three times throughout the trip (it was only a 4 day trip lol). The first time I got the fried chicken sandwich and poke bowl, both of which were very tasty. I'd pick the fried chicken sandwich if I had to choose one but the poke bowl was delicious as well and was nice for a fresh, lighter meal. The 2nd time I got the lobster roll, bloody mary, and sweet potato pecan cinnamon roll.
OH MY GOD. This was my first lobster roll and it did NOT disappoint. It came on Texas toast and since I opted for the warm version had an ample amount of melted butter dripping on it. I really can't put into words how good it was but I could have eaten one of those every day for the rest of my life. I dropped one small piece of lobster on the ground and I'm still kicking myself because no part of that roll should have been wasted. The pecan sweet potato roll was also next level. I am not huge on baked goods (definitely a savory over sweet girl) but this fall-inspired cinnamon roll was too good to pass up.
The 3rd time I got a sandwich to go for my journey back to NY. Sometimes simple is best and Noman's understands this concept when it comes to their sammies. Baguette, butter, ham and cheese came together to create a simple and satisfying sandwich that gave me big time Spain vibes. I lived in Spain for 6 months and one of my favorite food items was their perfectly plain, jamon y queso bocadillos you can find at any corner bakery. It was the perfect meal for my 5 hr drive back to NY. All in all, Noman's gets my recommendation for food and ambiance. The drinks were also really good! Semi pricey but hey, it's Martha's Vineyard.
3. Seaweeds
My adorable friend Liz, enjoying the wine I forgot to take a pic of
Although there are no vineyards on Martha's Vineyard, Seeaweed's is a great place to get your wine fix. Boasting an ever-changing inventory of organic wines, you tell the waitress what your style is and she will bring out a few different bottles for you to try.
I ended up with a super funky and fun orange wine from Spain which I regrettably forgot to take a photo of. I got two small apps-their eggplant and olives, both of which were delicious and the perfect portion for pairing with the drinks. This business is also queer woman-owned which I love to see/support!
4. Black Water Pond
There are plenty of beaches to choose from in MV but don't forget to explore the beautiful, woodsy areas of the island as well. Black Water Pond is a great place to go for a long stroll. The pond is covered in lily pads and true to its name is so dark it looks black and when you look into it the reflection is so clear it's like a mirror.
Surrounding the pond are acres of trees to get lost in (hopefully not literally-make sure you remember which path you took as there are many forks in the trail!) with crisp fresh air and fall foliage colors beautifully in effect.
5. Ben & Bills Chocolate Emporium
I know ice cream is technically a summer treat but who doesn't like ice cream year-round? Martha's Vineyard is big on ice cream. There's plenty of good options to choose from and I doubt that any of them would lead you astray but I ended up at Ben and Bill’s.
They not only have ice cream but an entire candy section which I am a total sucker for. Their "small" scoop is enough for me to share with at least one friend. A lot of their flavors sell out so just be prepared to have slim pickings if you go for a post-dinner dessert. All the flavors are good though so nothing to stress about too much ;)
6. West Tisbury Farmers Market
I love supporting small and local businesses whether I am in Denver or traveling. The West Tisbury Farmer's Market was a super cute, outside open-air market that hosted booths for fresh produce, honey, teas, tinctures, oysters, superfood popsicles, fish dips, and more.
I ended up buying a dried mushroom and veggie soup base from for a Christmas present for my mom (brownie points to myself for thinking three months in advance) from Bee Well, a spicy yellowtail dip from MV Smokehouse, cheese from Grey Barn, and a propolis and honey throat spray from Island Bee Company.
We used the fish dip and cheese for our charcuterie board that night and they were both amazing. The throat spray is now an addition to my daily health rituals and I'm loving it, especially knowing we're going into the winter and flu season and will probably see a spike in Covid-19.
7. Betinni
Located inside the Harbor View Hotel, this boujee restaurant upholds an ambiance of an upscale bar and the wait staff is humble and attentive. The patrons are the type to keep their noses turned up but that can happen in a town of old money.
That being said, I had a wonderful experience and their scallops were the best I've ever had in my life. That's saying something because I became obsessed with scallops a few years ago and get them anytime I see them on a menu so I have a lot to compare to.
The rigatoni with bolognese was also up there in best pasta dishes I've had. The sauce was super flavorful and a generous amount of parmesan on top definitely helped sway that decision. The bartender changed the TV so I could watch the NBA playoffs while sipping on my filthy martini which is really all a girl can ask for.
8. Gay Head Light
Not too far from Lucy Vincent beach is a beautiful lookout point. You look down over the sweeping cliff as the ocean hits the rocks and the quintessential lighthouse sits on top. It’s a quick, free and beautiful activity to add to the list and great for photo opps.
9. 7a
This popular sandwich shop is call in orders only and you should expect anywhere between 20-40 min wait time for your food but it you get a sandwich on their homemade focaccia I promise it'll be worth it.
